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The Siberian Marathon. International Mountaineering Festival “Ergaki 2009”

The Siberian Marathon

 

The International Mountaineering Festival “Ergaki 2009” took place in Krasnoyarsk Territory in July of 2009. It included climbing competitions, multisports race and the Russian Mountaineering Championship in rock climbing ascents class among men and women.



 

The Festival was held in a national park Ergaki, it is a surprisingly beautiful area in the Western Sayan Mountains, one of the five mountain massifs in Russia suitable for competitive mountaineering.
The Festival “Ergaki 2009” justly got a status of an international one. Climbers from the USA, Sweden, Israel, Serbia and Hungary came to Siberia.


The famous American solo climber Alex Honnold could demonstrate his brilliant skills in quick free climbing. The bravest western athletes could climb some routes during the championship, but most of them preferred climbing in such a famous place as Krasnoyarskie Stolby (Pillars) in order to join climbers’ movement which is called “stolbism” born more than 100 years ago.

 

More than 200 sportsmen took part in the Festival. 12 man pairs,7 woman pairs and 1 mixed pair competed in the Russian Championship. The teams were offered 33 routes in 5 climbing areas. During 14 days of climbing marathon 120 climbs of the 5-th and 6-th  grades were done, these were the championship records of the USSR and Russia.
The winners of the first Russian Woman Championship were a pair from the Krasnoyarsk Territory: Yulia Borisova and Masha Smelovskaya. 9 climbs were done by the girls; they got 48,82 points.
“We tried to be the first “to open” difficult routes and we did them successfully. On the final climb we got to the cold night due to the bad weather, we were standing on the ledge for several hours, but we endured, we waited till the fog cleared away to finish the route” – the girls explained their success cause.

 

Another pair from the Krasnoyarsk Territory consisting of Polina Galatsevich and Elena Shneider took the second place (9 climbs, 46,64 points). Svetlana Smaikina and Anastasia Kovalyova, a pair from the Tomsk region, were awarded the bronze medals (7 climbs, 42,21 points).
In man competitions brothers Sergey and Andrei Nefedovs from St. Petersburg were the first (10 climbs, 70,40 points).
“We thought of nothing but victory. For this purpose we acquired the best equipment, we were training in the Crimea on the similar routes for a month. During the ascent we used the strength saving tactics: one of us climbed, the other had a rest while belaying. We’d like to thank our trainer Tatiana Timoshenko who thought over the tactics and concerned everything. We had to only climb and sleep,” – that was one of the brothers’ victory recipes.
The representatives of the Irkutsk region Pavel Mikhalyov and Alexander Klepikov took the second place (10 climbs, 65,58 points). The pair Sergey Dashkevich - Mikhail Borich from the Sverdlovsk region was the third (7 climbs, 61,51 points).

The chief judge of the championship Pavel Shabalin summarized:
“After the battle with rocks the athletes became wiry, and the format of the rock marathon proved its vital capacity. In my opinion this format increases the skills level of sportsmen. As for the safety the championship passed without incidents.”